Living Like a Local

Without a doubt, I believe the true mission of any local worth their salt — in any town, in any city — is to share their favorite places. And if those places happen to serve exceptional food, even better.

So, as a true Barcelonian, today I’m sharing some of my best-kept secrets of the Catalan capital. And, naturally, I begin at the counter.

In my view, bar and restaurant counters should be declared national heritage sites. Life unfolds there in its purest form. They educate those who frequent them as much as — or perhaps more than — school ever could. They gift moments and memories that linger for years. They spark friendships, open conversations and, without even trying, encourage critical thinking. They are a genuine antidote to boredom and human foolishness. And in many of them, you eat extraordinarily well.

Take the counter at Ultramarinos Marín, Carrer de Balmes 187, 08006 Barcelona. I love sitting there alone — and in company — because it faces a display case holding the-best-escabeche-you-will-ever-taste-in-your-life, alongside other seasonal delicacies and pristine produce. It is also a feast for the senses: for the eyes, ears, nose and palate, set to the synchronized choreography of the team and the live masterclass unfolding on the wood-fired griddle, strategically positioned at the front.

Everything here is prepared in house. In the inner dining room, a second counter overlooks the grill, with more intimate tables tucked behind. If you visit and rabbit appears on the menu, do yourself a favor: order it. Always.

Continuing in the spirit of sharing insider knowledge, the finest sardines in escabeche — now available to take away — can be found at the gourmet shop Va de Cuina, Carrer Major de Sarrià 130, 08017 Barcelona. For perfect peas with ham or baby squid, Adolfo and his brothers at Bonanova, Carrer de Sant Gervasi de Cassoles 103, 08022 Barcelona, are the address to remember.